Barcelona!

I never thought I would love a city so much based on its metro system, but when I saw the sparkling clean, organized, and easy to navigate Barcelonian metros decorated at the stops with backlit pictures of leaves and mosaics, I felt like I wanted to give every public transport official there a big hug. Getting around Barcelona was a delight after five days in Rome, and I actually enjoyed spending time on the quick and efficient metro trains full of generally nice people. Funny old men with accordions accompanied by old ladies on the tambourine or young hippie guys with guitars would occasionally get on and give a friendly serenade, and all that was missing was a little café area to make the whole thing seem like a luxury experience. God bless you, Barcelonian Public Transport Council, from me and from all other tourists heavy laden with baggage and unwashed clothing longing to be cleaned.

BCN Metro

Barcelona, like its metro system, is slick and modern. The streets are laid out in straight lines, everything connects in a way that makes sense, and the city is very clean and well maintained and full of glass and chrome and beautiful people. But it also has a more traditional side: in the historic sector of the downtown area, the narrow cobblestoned streets and gothic architecture create an Old World atmosphere. The city has done an excellent job of blending the old with the new in a tasteful and pleasing way. Las Ramblas, the big outdoor market lining the main pedestrian way in the middle of town, is a bit too touristy for my taste, as are the many tapas places with menus in English and overpriced wine. However, the grocery section of the market, which branches off from the main strip, is fantastic. There you can find freshly made fruit juices of all imaginable varieties, lamb’s tongue, all kinds of exotic local produce and spices and freshly caught seafood. I took lots of pictures here, continually surprised by all the weird and interesting goods for sale. Too bad fresh octopus doesn’t keep well, and wouldn’t fit in my pack!

Fruits and Veggies

Lambs' Heads

Travelling with my lovely friend Tessie was a joy from the beginning. It’s so much easier to find your hotel when one of you can look at the metro map while the other studies the street map. Two maps at a time can be rather overwhelming, especially if you are sporting a frontpack. And it’s not nearly as fun to ride in a little bike taxi alone! On the whole, we liked Las Ramblas but found our venture into downtown Barcelona and the beach didn’t really fulfill our desire to see local culture, since most of the people we ran into were Americans. I felt like I was in Florida, not Spain. So we went in pursuit of some local culture, and had not one but two very intriguing experiences.

The first one came about through my first walking tour of Europe- A Gaudi tour, to be exact. Barcelona is home to the greatest works of this architectural genius, and we were privileged enough to to see them! Gaudi’s works are fantastical in their strangeness yet mesmerizing in their beauty. The first house we saw, the Casa Batllo, reminded me of a Mardi Gras cupcake made by Tim Burton. The second house, the-Casa Mila, was more austere and the balconies were a bit disturbing, but I couldn’t stop staring at the strange shapes that represented nothing and a thousand things at the same time. Gaudi, strange and esoteric as he and his works were, is a master of evoking the imagination of the viewer. Our last stop on the tour was at his masterpiece and life’s work, the Sagrada Familia Basilica. Words cannot describe the beauty and awesomeness of this modern cathedral. From the tree-like columns to the brilliant profusion of light in the interior to the incredible detail on the nativity façade, its sustained excellence and unity on such a grand scale make it a true work of genius. It evokes reverence in the viewer in a way appropriate for a place of worship, yet in a totally different way from the traditional gothic or baroque churches I found in Rome. I could not help but compare it to St. Peter’s, and the two make quite a contrast to each other. While St. Peter’s inspires awe and respect, Sagrada Familia appeals to the emotions with a more approachable and intimate feel. Nature imagery, the depiction of the commonplace and the permeation of light make for, I feel, a very personal religious experience.

Casa Batllo

Stained Glass in Sagrada Familia

Our second cultural experience was found only after some travelling adversities. The direcions from Google Maps led us to a deserted warehouse, and we finally found the flamenco show Tablao de Carmen in a small medieval village now used as a large museum and marketplace for traditional Spanish glass, leather and metalworking wares. The village was empty as everything but the Tablao was closed, and we didn’t have a reservation to get in. After some negotiating with the entrance guard we got him to call the restaurant where the show was and get us a spot, after which he gave us a map of the pseudo-village and explained how to reach our evening’s entertainment. Our journey wasn’t over yet, though. We got a little lost in the winding streets that all looked the same, and ended up kind of jogging back and forth up creepy deserted alleyways of the little fake town trying with rising desperation to find the place before the show started. When we finally arrived and were seated at a little table right next to the stage, we both felt like we were characters mid-episode in an installment of The Twilight Zone. Or maybe The Three Stooges. We were served some delicious tapas and sangria, and waited expectantly for the dancers to emerge. It turned out there was no need to rush and we enjoyed our food for a bit before the lights went down and the dramatic music began, signaling the beginning of our “dinner and a show.”

The strange build of getting lost made the performance seem even more enthralling. The singers and guitarist set the mood with wailing voices punctuated by vigorous bursts of strumming in melancholic keys. The dancing was controlled, slow and smooth, offset by the crisp rapping of flamenco shoes and the graceful movements of arms and wrists and hands. Everyting about the dance is dramatic and intense: the vivid colors of the ruffled dresses, the stark lighting on the stage.  The flamenco speaks of a passionate people, but passionate in a different way from the gregarious animation of Italy- more austere, controlled and serious. The dancers took joy in the discipline and drama of the dance, laughing and smiling between sets, joking with each other but always intense and emotional during each performance. Even their faces were a part of the dance, wearing expressions of sadness, anger, and pride helped along by dramatic makeup and hair. These people seem to take joy in high seriousness. Not a loose carefree joy, but a joy in the intensity and the discipline and passion of the dance. I took a joy in it as well, especially after a pitcher of sangria and the delicious tapas they kept piling on our table! Fried octopus, thin cured ham and sausage slices, roasted salted peppers and Spanish cheeses topped off by some kind of baked custard with a sugary glazed top.

Overall, we really enjoyed Barcelona! Next up: Rome, Round Two. I'll be on the ferry from Santorini to Athens tomorrow, hopefully I'll have some time to write then!